A Special Guiding Day in Niseko: Not Perfect Conditions, Still Pure Japan

Some guiding days in Niseko stand out not because of perfect powder or bluebird skies, but because of the people you share the mountain with. This was one of those days.

I was guiding three close friends on their first trip to Japan: Aleix (snowboard), Ruth (skis) and Manel (snowboard). We met years ago working together in Cerler, during the post-COVID season when Japan was still closed. Now, finally, we were riding Niseko together, and I’m sure this won’t be their last trip here.

Not the Best Snow… But the Right Attitude

Conditions were far from ideal. A strong west wind the day before, no fresh snowfall and a lot of wind-affected snow. Still, my goal was clear: to show them as much of the Niseko United terrain as possible, so they could understand the mountain for future trips, even if I wasn’t guiding them next time.

When the Day Starts Against You

We met early at the Ace Gondola, ready to queue up and make the most of the day. Just as it was our turn to load… the gondola broke down.

We waited around 30 minutes, hoping it was temporary, until the lifty told us it would be at least two hours. So we ran (literally) to the King Gondola. As expected, long lines, more waiting and a delayed start.

Not ideal, but that’s guiding in Niseko: adapting fast.

Gate 11: Mandatory Knowledge, Not Magic Snow

Once up high, we moved quickly toward Gate 11. I knew it wouldn’t be amazing, but it’s a zone you must know if you want to understand Niseko’s backcountry access.

Rider’s right, between the trees, we managed to find a couple of decent turns. Aleix and Manel can ride anything, and Ruth handled it solidly on skis, but overall it was wind crust and chopped-up snow. Two good turns; the rest was pure chopped-up conditions.

Gate 1: Same Story

From there, Gate 1. More of the same: some soft pockets between the trees, but mostly wind-blown and chopped-up snow. Not the Niseko people dream about… yet.

The Climb to the Peak: Cold, Wind, Fog

We pushed up toward the peak. Wind, flat light, fog: typical Niseko on a tough day.

But once we dropped past the worst affected zone and entered the trees heading toward Hanazono, along the East Ridge, everything changed. Those narrow gullies were holding good snow.

First Real Reward of the Day

Finally, smiles. Soft turns, protected terrain and that unmistakable feeling that now we were riding Niseko. This was the first real payoff of the day.

We exited via the cat track, crossed Banana Field and took the mandatory tree run all the way down to the Hanazono base. Fun, playful riding: not epic, but enjoyable.

Racing the Clock

From the base, straight back up Hana 1, 2 and 3. It was already late, and another peak lap wasn’t realistic. So we made the call: Rob Roy.

That zone almost always delivers, and this time it didn’t disappoint: proper Japow-style turns, even late in the day.

One Last Push… and the Best Turns at 3 PM

It was around 2 pm. Energy was low and the snow still not amazing, but we decided on one more run. We headed toward Super, exited halfway through, and I took them to one of my secret spots.

Three wide, flowing turns between very tight trees.

Route of the Day

1. Ace Gondola breaks down: 30 minutes waiting
2. Run to the King Gondola
3. Gate 11: wind crust and chopped-up snow
4. Gate 1: soft pockets between the trees
5. Climb to the peak in wind and fog
6. East Ridge trees toward Hanazono
7. Cat track, Banana Field and tree run to the Hanazono base
8. Hana 1, 2 and 3
9. Rob Roy
10. 3:00 Secret spot off Super

Want a Day Like This?

Tough days are when local knowledge pays off most. A guide knows where the snow is hiding, how to work around closed lifts and when to make the call.

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